The Battle of Pastel de Nata in Lisbon: Manteigaria or Pasteis de Belem

Pastel de nata is an iconic pastry and a must-try food when visiting Lisbon. There are many great cafes and bakeries that make pastel de nata in Lisbon. But when it comes to the most popular spot, it always comes down to Manteigaria and Pasteis de Belem. So who does it better? After two trips to Lisbon, here are my thoughts & experiences of both places in the battle of pastel de nata.

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What is Pastel de Nata

Simply put, pastel de nata is Portuguese custard tarts, featuring crispy, flaky pastry with a creamy egg-custard filling, topped with a dusting of cinnamon and icing sugar. It is believed that this delightful pastry creation originated in the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, where monks and nuns used leftover egg yolks to make cakes and pastries, including pastel de nata. The original recipe was a closely guarded secret for many years and was only passed down through generations of monks. In the 19th century, after the dissolution of religious orders in Portugal, the monks started selling pastel de nata as a source of income for the monastery, and eventually sold the recipe to a nearby sugar refinery. The owners of the sugar refinery then went on to open Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém, and the rest is history.

Manteigaria vs Pasteis de Belem

A plate of five pastel de nata at Manteigaria in Lisbon

Manteigaria Pastel de Nata

The hype is real at Manteigaria. It was love at first bite since I first stepped into their Chiado shop, and it continued to impress on every visit. Expect the most perfectly crispy and flaky pastry, enveloping a lusciously sweet, creamy, and gooey custard filling that would sweep you off your feet. There’s a bell outside the shop, and it rings whenever a fresh batch is ready from the oven!

Manteigaria now has multiple locations, not just in Lisbon, but across Portugal, and even in Paris, Madrid, and Macau.

Locations (Lisbon only): Chiado / Augusta / Time Out Market

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A plate of three pastel de nata and a cup of hot chocolate with cream at Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon

Pasteis de Belem

Regarded as the birthplace of pastel de nata, Pasteis de Belem is also a must-try food spot in Lisbon. Don’t be daunted by the massive queues outside the shop. Instead, head straight inside the cafe, where there is actually plenty of seating available for dine-in service.

On my first visit, I thought they were excellent, but Manteigaria was just a teeny bit better. But on my second visit, Pasteis de Belem stood out with its moreish caramelised touch and ultra crispiness on the pastry. Maybe, just maybe, Pasteis de Belem has a slightly better edge this time round.

Tip: get to Belem by hopping on the 15E tram from Rossio

The Verdict: Who Makes the Best Pastel de Nata in Lisbon?

Honestly, I can’t tell. During my first trip to Lisbon, Manteigaria was the winner of the two. But the second trip has left me utterly torn. Both bakeries are absolutely worth the hype. One thing is for sure: no matter who gets the crown for the best pastel de nata, there is no other place that makes them as good as these two.


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